A little back story: when the treaty was signed in 1921, it divided not only Ireland (26 counties) and Northern Ireland (6 counties), but it also divided the nation between those who were were in favor of it (NI), thus continuing to be ruled under the monarch, and those opposed (RoI) to it, who were now a country unto themselves. Back then, the divide was greatly based on religion, Protestant and Catholic, but today it is all about politics. The lines of where exactly the argument began are so blurred, that Irish kids today don't even know that it began as a religious battle.
Belfast, being the largest city in NI, was hit the hardest, outside of the Bloody Sunday massacre, which happened in (London)Derry. Therefore, tensions are still high in the city, the divide still very much felt in the streets. Flags line every corner, marking territory. The residential city is VERY much split between the two sides, with the tri-colored Irish flag and the Union Jack flying in each respective side.
Now, I had the great fortune to be staying at a friend's house, rather than in a hotel / hostel in the city center. This entirely allowed me to view the strife from the inside, albeit from one biased side. Living with a Catholic family for 10 days gave me the insight to just how real the tensions are still present. The girl I stayed by, Arlene, told me she and her family would never go to the other (loyalist) side, for fear of being recognized. To me, it just seemed ludicrous that the two sides don't stray into each other's neighborhoods. I guess the only 'neutral' place was town, though Arlene told me she could spot one from a mile away.
The city even went so far as to erect a 'peace wall' dividing the areas to keep order, with a gate that still today closes at night. Insane.
But aside from alllllll that, Belfast is a very interesting city with rich history and lots to see. I had a fantastic time walking the city, climbing surrounding mountains, and even ventured to the Jewish side for shabbas. The city has one shul, and they get 10 men most of the time, though the rabbi is the only shomer shabbat male in the whole city. He and his wife are very hospitable and made me feel Jewish amongst a city of Catholics.
Belfast is quite famous for their murals, seen on both side of the story, which depict the Troubles and the fight for freedom on the Republic side, and the love of the Queen on the loyalist side. They tend to stay away from the politics of it all. Though I myself lean towards the Irish side, they are the side that are pro-Palestinian, siding with those who feel occupied. This is visible in some of their murals. I only told 3 people (besides my hosts) there that I was from Israel, and all 3 asked me if I was from Israel or Palestine. I felt sorry for the ignorance of the citizens, and fearful that this is what the rest of the world knows to be true.
Here are some murals from both sides.
While the murals are a sign of the ever-present divide, they are still so very striking and grand. Less grand are the dozens of roadside memorials lining almost every main street, showing where bombs went off, or where people were stabbed during the Troubles, the most recent being not so very long ago.
Some other sights from around the town.
Beautiful City Hall from the outside and inside
Belfast is also very Titanic-happy, as the ill fated ship was built there. There is a commanding and impressive Titanic museum and building in the shipyards where it was built.
A section of the Peace Wall.
Queens University
From inside the Ulster Museum
Though Belfast is a noticeably depressing city, I had a great time. My hosts treated me as family, I got to take many interesting hikes, and I could say I've been somewhere and experienced something most people I know, haven't. Just being in Belfast broadened my mind to a part of the world I knew nothing about, only enhancing my love and understanding for Ireland as a whole.
Belfast Castle. Though small compared to other castles, the grounds were impressive. I was only saddened to know that all the original stones and interior rooms were renovated to make the castle more commercial, as it is mostly used for weddings, today. I much prefer the old, authentic ones.
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